Monday, July 24, 2017

Short Pants in Penzance

This weekend, Diane and I went to Penzance, a town in Cornwall, which is on the southwest peninsula of England. This was our decision making process for the trip:

Diane: I want to do cool things.
Me: My guidebook mentioned Penzance.
Diane: What should we do there?
Me: I dunno, the guidebook literally just says to go visit.
Diane: Let's do it.

It was a lengthy train ride (6 hours) and a bit pricey (only half the price of the Eurostar to Paris), but we got our homework done (all of Antony and Cleopatra and most of Julius Caesar) and we had a great cheap hostel (£17 per night) to stay in when we arrived.

On that first night, we decided to drop off our bags and go grab some good food. We went to Moon Thai, recommended by the hostel owner, and it was delicious, especially with the accompanying Thai music that Diane knew a dance for. We had a great view of the ocean as we ate, so we went for a walk along the waterfront afterwards. On the way, it rained a little, but we saw THREE RAINBOWS (one regular, which later disappeared, and then a double). It was pure magic.

The next morning, we went to a little cafe for breakfast (the only place open in the whole sleepy town), where we met a man who's a dual citizen here and in the US. He told us all about his time working on trains across the country. We then made our way to the bus stop and sat out in the open on the second level on the way to Porthcurno, which is about 40 minutes west of Penzance. While on the bus, we saw black storm clouds rolling in, and we had to move to a sheltered part of the bus to avoid sitting in puddles.

The rain let up a bit as we walked to the Minack Theatre, which is an open-air performance space that was built before WWII by an old lady and her gardener. In those days, people needed to make their own entertainment, so Miss  Rowena Cade sewed costumes for the locals to perform A Midsummer Night's Dream on the lawn of her house. The show was such a success, that she decided to put on another the following year: The Tempest. Really, though, they couldn't possibly perform such a play on the lawn; it had to be done at the back of the house...on the cliff. So Miss Cade enlisted the help of Billy, the gardener, to make a theatre in the rocks. They worked all winter long, breaking boulders and paving the stage, all by hand, and just the two of them! The Tempest was such a hit that they wanted to continue the trend.

Miss Cade and Billy worked year after year to expand and improve the theatre based on feedback from directors, actors and audiences. When they wanted to make additions using cement, the pair build 90 stone steps into the cliff so the 80-year-old Miss Cade could walk up and down from the beach to bring up sand for the cement mix. Today, the stage still hosts a variety of shows, each lasting only a week. Each acting troupe that visits arrives on Saturday to set up, rehearses on Sunday, then performs Monday to Friday with a party and clean up that last evening.

On the day we visited, the rain hindered many visitors, but Diane and I were too excited about the space (partially because of our Page to Stage class), so the actor who gives tours as Billy was enthusiastic to tell us everything we wanted to hear. He wanted to get out of the rain too, though, so he took us backstage and to the dressing rooms (not a usual part of the tour) so that we could all stay dry...and see some more cool spots!

After our theatre adventure, we hiked along the coastal trail towards Land's End. This L.E. is not the store, but the literal end of the land. On our way there, the weather was drizzly, warm, sunny, windy, pouring, cold, and then repeated like that every 20 minutes. Despite that, the whole area of Cornwall quickly became my new favorite place. The sea was turquoise and strong as it crashed across the rocks. The jagged edges of the land made it seem like it really was the edge of the world. There were even birds that simply stopped flying and just floated in place above us because the wind was so strong - like they hit a barrier at the end of the Earth. We walked past brilliant purple flowers, through chocolatey mud puddles, and other layered hikers braving the temperamental weather.

Both Diane and I wore calf-length workout pants on this hike. For all future travelers, we both heartily recommend long pants in Penzance. With all the wet weather, we were both covered in mud (at least on our legs - there was a distinct mud line just above our short pants). Additionally, I had a run in with some stinging nettles, which was unpleasant. Unrelated to pants, Diane's hand met a prickle bush that left pricks in her as a memento of Penzance, even after we'd left the region. All around, a jolly good time.



When we got to Land's End, we saw the lighthouse way off in the distance that shepherded sailors away from harm for so long. We also saw the First and Last House of England (because it's the farthest west), and ate Cornish Pasties (basically a pot pie without the pot). Also, fun fact: the PBS Masterpiece show Poldark is shot in Cornwall, so, if you've ever seen that show, you know to be jealous of the vistas that this place provides.

We hopped back on the bus to take warm showers and get all the mud off our legs. We headed to a local bar for dinner and drinks, then slept like the rocks we'd hiked on all day.

In the morning, we packed our bags and went to our final destination: St. Michael's Mount. This island-castle has one of the coolest modes of transportation for your visit. To get there, you have to wait until low tide and walk across the causeway that's covered when the tide comes in...or you can take a ferry, but that's way less exciting.

According to legend, the Mount was once home to the giant Cormoran, and you can still see the giant's heart among the cobbled streets of the castle. Additionally, sailors are said to have seen visions of Michael the Archangel atop the Mount as he guided them to safety there. The site has therefore been a place for pilgrims and sailors alike, but it was also a fortress used to protect Cornwall from invaders, and again in the English Civil War.



After a quick stop for a bite to eat, we hopped back on the train to Oxford (where we actually got to sit in chairs the second time around) and delved back into our books before classes on Monday. When all was said and done, Cornwall (at least the southern part) is by far the best place on Earth, and I will tell you a hundred times over that you should go visit.

Unfortunately, though, there are no pirates to be found in Penzance. Except Diane.

Wednesday, July 19, 2017

Weekend Visits: Lake District and Ireland

We're already into the second half of the summer, and things are starting to get chaotic. Part of the reason for that is because I'm gone all the time - we have class for 3 hours a day, sometimes 12, and then I go away for the weekends. So here are the basics of my past two weekends.

THE LAKE DISTRICT
At the very last minute, I was invited to go on this trip, and, on the spur of the moment, I agreed. We stayed at the Church House Inn and, honestly, all of you should stay there. The people were friendly, and the ambiance was cozy. Seven of us stayed in a room meant for six, but we made it work.

We rented two cars and drove the 5 hours north from Oxford. When we were only 3 miles away, we blew a tire, but the kindest elderly couple stopped and let us use their phones to call the service company (we're capable girls, but they didn't leave us a spare tire), and then a taxi drove by just then! It was a gift, and one of the three of us got in the cab to go to the inn and gather the rest of the group so we could make a plan. Everything worked out in the end, and we made it to the inn with time for a substantial dinner and some good rest before a full Saturday.

We woke up to a complimentary breakfast the next day, then journeyed out into the wilderness for an all-day hike up Old Man Conistan, the mountain nearby. We didn't even have to drive to the trailhead, since it started right near our inn! However...we didn't exactly know where we were going. We'd studied our maps and asked for directions, but we ended up in a marsh - our feet were covered in water, so we sloshed around for a while before we found dryer land. In the meantime, we were surrounded by sheep, which was awesome, and the vistas were incredible. We eventually saw other hikers on the top of the mountains, so we knew we were headed in the right direction. With a bit of luck and guidance, we found the real road, and spent the rest of the journey following that path.


I was definitely the slowest and least experienced hiker, but I spent a ton of time taking pictures of the breathtaking landscapes around us. The vistas were simply incredible; I honestly don't even have words to describe how awe-inspiring they were. I could see all the way to the ocean, but I could also see the flowers in the grass at my feet. I could feel the warmth of the sun, but also the chill of the speeding wind as it flew over the mountaintop. I could smell the fresh air, but it was almost like I could taste it, too. Pictures can never do it justice. Especially considering the pride that I felt with every step I took. Especially when we got to the summit, with every step that I looked back, I said, "Look at that mountain! My body did that!" It was sensational.


After we returned to earth, we rewarded ourselves with a pint at a pub on the other side of the mountain, then we made the slow journey back to the inn. After showers and dry socks, we went out for dinner and then slept like rocks. The next morning, we went on a literary tour of the area, seeing Beatrix Potter's Gallery and William Wordsworth's grave before heading home to Oxford.

IRELAND
My fifth cousins live in Waterford, so two of us decided to journey to the motherland for a weekend visit. We had to wake up at 3am to get on a bus at 4, then a plane at 7 (If you were wondering, Oxford is super sketchy at 3am), and we arrived in Dublin proper around noon. We had about 4 hours of free time in the city before the cousins picked us up, so we saw the Dublin Writers' Museum, several landmark statues (including James Joyce and Molly Mollone), then met at the Spire (the new, gigantic millennium statue).

Family friends of theirs were having a small gathering for dinner that evening, and, because of their Irish hospitality, they of course invited us visitors for the meal as well. We had good food, good company, and hilarious conversation, which ended with some splendid Irish step dancing by the dads. The next day, Susan (my 4th cousin once removed, if you want to get technical about it) took us around Waterford, the oldest city in Ireland, which was established by the vikings in the 900s. We went on a tour of the Waterford Crystal company, had a lovely lunch, then drove to the coast.



The sun was shining all morning, but, just as we started to drive to the sea, the fog rolled in. Honestly, I think that was a more authentic experience to see the cliffs enshrouded in clouds, and it was beautiful to see. We drove home for mass and a relaxing dinner, then went back to the airport at 11 the next morning.


The entire weekend was spectacular, but I think one of the nicest parts was just that we could go slow and enjoy the weekend because we knew that we had transportation, housing, dining, touring and planning already settled by my overwhelmingly generous cousins. What a joy to be able to spend time with such gracious hosts in the middle of such a chaotic summer!

In the meantime, it's back to schoolwork: performances, texts, shows and meetings galore.

Monday, July 10, 2017

Bloodbath: A Gory Review of Salome and Titus Andronicus

Bloodbath is really an understatement when considering the striking amount of death and mutilation that happened on stage on the 5th of July between the hours of 13:30 and 22:45. This review will therefore take the form of obituaries, which will appear in chronological order.


13:50 - Young Syrian, Captain of the Guard
Beloved by the Page of Herodias, this brave young man was willing to sacrifice his semi-elite job for Princess Salome, who he loved, but he slayed himself when he realized that she loved Iokanaan instead. Talk about a love triangle! 

14:35 - Iokanaan, The Prophet
All Iokanaan wanted was to preach the word of God. When Salome realized that Iokanaan loved God more than he could ever love her, she had his head cut off. Because, of course. 

15:00 - Salome, Daughter of Herodias
After a long uphill battle that ended in an unrequited love, King Herod realized that his step-daughter was really a lunatic and accomplice to murder, so he ordered his drunk friends to kill her.

19:20 - Alarbus, Son of Tamora
Alarbus arrived in Rome as a prisoner of war, but he didn't stay long. He was killed by the order of Titus Andronicus, a Roman general, as a sacrifice. Cause of death: lopping off of limbs and feeding of entrails to fire.

19:30 - Mutius, Son of Titus Andronicus
While Mutius attempted to defend the honor of Lavinia (his sister), Titus Andronicus (his father) slayed him. With a name like Mutius, I don't know what else you expected.

19:55 - Bassianus, Brother of Saturninus
As the brother of the Emperor of Rome, Bassianus held power in the city, but apparently not enough - or maybe too much - because he was murdered by Tamora's sons and thrown into a pit in front of his newlywed wife, Lavinia.

20:15 - Martius and Quintus, Sons of Titus Andronicus
There was a bit of a mix-up, so Martius and Quintus were blamed for Bassianus's death. Titus Andronicus sliced off his own hand as a sacrificial offering to save them from the hands of Saturninus, but that was another mix-up, so they were beheaded anyway.

20:45 - Messenger
They say "Don't shoot the messenger," but I'm not sure that Aaron got the message. Or, if he did, he didn't like it, because this messenger was hung after delivery. At least the pigeons got there.

21:15 - Nurse
This Nurse had a job title that wasn't "messenger," but she still died for the same reason. Aaron didn't like what she had to say about his illegitimate son. 

21:17 - Midwife
When the Nurse gave Aaron the message about his son, Aaron wanted to double check that no one else would spill the beans, so he murdered the Midwife for good measure. 

22:05 - Demetrius and Chiron, Sons of Tamora
Unconvincingly disguised as rape and murder, these two boys messed with the wrong man when they killed Bassianus, raped Lavinia (cutting off her hands and tongue in the process), then framed and murdered Martius and Quintus. Therefore, Titus Andronicus slit their throats and made Lavinia collect the blood so that he could bake a pie with their heads inside and make Tamora, their mother, eat it. Not necessarily the most appetizing meal, but it got 3 stars on Yelp.

22:30 - Lavinia, Daughter of Titus Andronicus
Due to her impurity after being maimed, Titus Andronicus decided that the best course of action would be to kill his daughter rather than have her live in shame and pain for the rest of her life. 

22:31 - Tamora, Queen of the Goths
Titus Andronicus was fed up with Tamora's conniving ways, so he made her eat the pie with her sons' heads inside, then killed her.

22:32 - Titus Andronicus
Saturninus wanted to avenge the death of his late wife, Tamora, so he stabbed and killed Titus Andronicus.

22:33 - Saturninus, Emperor of Rome
Lucius watched three people die in a row and almost ate a meal of two other deceased, so he decided to put a stop to it...by killing the Emperor, who had slain his father.

22:45 - Aaron the Moor, Tamora's Lover
The true mastermind behind most of the dead was truly an evil man who, when offered the chance to repent, only regretted that he had not committed 10,000 more atrocities. Therefore, Lucius, the newly appointed Emperor of Rome, had Aaron buried in the ground up to his neck and starved of food, threatening to kill any who fed or even pitied Aaron, thus ending the cycle of deaths by threatening more death. Obviously.

Sunday, July 2, 2017

Weekend 1 in Lists and Pictures

Friday
1. Sleep in since you only got back from Bat Out of Hell at 2am.
2. Go to the "Which Jane Austen?" exhibit at the library to examine early editions of her texts, learn about her family and personal life, and see the real letters she wrote to Cassandra.
3. Read Titus Andronicus in the Radcliffe Camera (the fancy circular building that I keep taking pictures of), and be amazed at the spiral staircases.
4. Enjoy a mini pub crawl and end up at both the Lamb & Flag and the Eagle & Child, the pub where CS Lewis, JRR Tolkien and the other Inklings met for their writing club.





Saturday
1. Take the train to Bath, then start the tour of the city in the ancient Roman baths, which stem from a heated spring underground, and which led the locals to worship the deity Sulis Minerva.
2. Have high tea in the Pump Room, above the baths and where famous scenes from Persuasion were filmed.
3. Visit the Bath Cathedral to admire the exquisite windows while listening to an operatic choir rehearse gorgeous music.
4. Find a cheesemonger. Eat cheese.
5. Explore the Jane Austen Centre to learn more about the authoress's life and times.
6. Take a jaunt around the city, delving into an independent bookstore and wandering past the river.
7. On the train platform, have a picnic consisting of cheese, crackers, wine and Cadbury chocolate.

Sunday
1. Sleep in again because what else are weekends for?
2. Attend mass at the St. Thomas Moore Chapel in the Oxford Catholic Chaplaincy.
3. Read under the shade of the trees in Grove Quad back on campus.
4. Have hilarious conversations about the varieties of cultures within America at lunch.
5. Plan to study in the library, but then run into friends who are going to the Vaults coffee shop, and join them instead, and spend more time talking than reading.

6. Get confused by the English weather, which makes you alternatingly shiver and sweat within 2 minutes.
7. Stay when your friends leave, and spend a bit of time actually getting reading done.
8. When a lovely elderly British couple asks to sit at your half-empty table, say "Oh, yes, please do!" and then proceed to enjoy a two hour conversation with them about, among other things,

  • English history
  • American geography
  • Detective shows
  • Classic novels
  • Education systems
  • Travel destinations
  • Sibling differences
  • RV sizes
9. After dinner, play cards with your professor and two friends until dusk.

Saturday, July 1, 2017

A Review by an Uninformed Reviewer

The "Stage" part of our Page to Stage class began on Thursday with the insanely creative and incredibly stimulating musical, Bat Out of Hell, at the Coliseum Theatre. Here, find a review of the production from someone who only knew one Meat Loaf song before arriving at the theatre (and yes, that's how you spell it - we're in Britain). 

The production began before the music did as a few cast members made their way to the motorcycle on stage and began to quietly chat. On the projected screen behind them, background information about the setting appeared as a digital text, detailing the city's troubles. Meanwhile, the audience takes in the stage: the foreground appears to form a sharp drop-off into which one could easily fall. 

A crash!

A spotlight!

A silence... 

The audience is already captured by the eerie darkness surrounding the one youth on stage as he begins to recite what sounds like spoken word poetry. The creepy vibe continues as the actor becomes more passionate and enraged, speaking in sweeping, confusing verses about the city's plight. The orchestra jumps in as the projected screen falls away and a fight scene ensues, and now the musical has truly begin. 

From then on, the audience is continually overwhelmed with abundant visual and auditory stimulation, from strobe lights and smoke, to revving motorcycles and screeching bats. A camerawoman follows the upper-class characters, and her feed is projected onto the walls of the set. A booming microphone amplifies the passionate voices of the Lost - children who are incapable of growing up, and against whom the elites fight for power. 

The star-crossed love stories of seven main characters intersect throughout the drama, revealing the deeper truths and intentions of each one involved. At moments, the audience feels uncertain where the next turn will lead, but at others, everyone is on the same page, especially for the most iconic songs - some audience members even chime in to sing along when they know the words. 

"It's All Coming Back to Me Now" surprised many because of the Celine Dion reference in a Meat Loaf musical, but a deeper search reveals that Mr. Loaf wanted to sing the song when his producer initially wrote it. The songwriter believed the ballad was meant for a woman's voice, though, so it was given to Ms. Dion. Several years later, Mr. Loaf was given his own chance at the song, so it is truly relevant to a Meat Loaf musical. 

The finale, and the song that stole the show, though was, of course, "I Would Do Anything for Love." The song not only brought resolution to the tensions of the play, but it provided an opportunity for all of the main characters to serenade their beloveds, giving a feel-good ending to a show that started in the opposite register. 

After the performance, we were lucky enough to meet the lead, Andrew Polec, the student of our Page to Stage professor. Andrew was a gracious host, and he brought us backstage to see the inner workings of the show. We were able to see the dressing rooms, furnishings, vehicles, and lights for the play, and Andrew, along with the stage manager, explained the technical details of the workings of the stage. Witnessing the complexity of the production made viewing the seamless show all the more magical.